Build Your Own Rustic Farmhouse Dining Table
Don't pay thousands for a designer dining table when you can build a solid wood, family-heirloom farmhouse table over a single weekend.
The Heart of the Home
There is no piece of furniture more important than the dining room table. It's where homework is done, holidays are celebrated, and life is shared.
When my wife and I were looking for a new dining table ten years ago, we went to a high-end furniture store and were quoted nearly $3,000 for a solid wood farmhouse table. I took one look at the joinery underneath and realized I could build something much stronger for about $300 in dimensional pine lumber.
Today, I’m sharing the exact process I used to build that table—a table that has survived three kids, countless spilled drinks, and is only looking better with age.
Materials and Tools Required
Before we begin, you need to head to your local lumber yard. Try to avoid the big box stores for this if you can—you want the straightest, driest boards available.
The Lumber List:
- (5) 2x8x8 Pine boards (for the top)
- (4) 4x4x8 Pine boards (for the chunky legs)
- (4) 2x4x8 Pine boards (for the aprons and supports)
The Tool List:
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Drill/Driver combo
- Pocket hole jig (I recommend Kreg)
- Random orbital sander (with 80, 120, and 220 grit paper)
- Tape measure and speed square
- At least 4 heavy-duty bar clamps (36" minimum)
When choosing the lumber for your table top, take your time. Look down the edge of each board to check for bowing or twisting. Only buy boards that are dead straight.
Step 1: Building the Base
The foundation of a great farmhouse table is its chunky, immovable base. We are going to use the 4x4s for the legs to give it that authentic, heavy rustic look.
- Cut the legs: Cut your four 4x4 legs to exactly 28 ½ inches long.
- Cut the aprons: Use your 2x4s to cut two long aprons (usually around 64 inches for a standard table) and two short aprons (around 27 inches).
- Drill pocket holes: Drill two pocket holes on each end of all four apron pieces. Make sure your jig is set for 1 ½ inch thick material.
- Assemble: On a flat surface, attach the aprons to the legs using wood glue and 2 ½ inch pocket hole screws. Recess the aprons about ½ inch in from the outside face of the legs to give it depth.
Always use a copious amount of standard yellow wood glue in every joint. The pocket hole screws act as internal clamps holding the wood together while the glue dries, but the glue is what actually provides the long-term strength.
Step 2: Assembling the Table Top
This is the part that intimidates most beginners, but edge-gluing a tabletop is incredibly satisfying once you know the secret.
- Cut to length: Cut your five 2x8 boards to your desired length (typically 72 to 84 inches).
- Lay them out: Arrange them on your workbench or the floor. Flip them around until the grain patterns look pleasing and the boards sit nicely against each other.
- Glue and clamp: Turn the boards on their sides, apply a liberal zig-zag of wood glue, lay them flat, and clamp them together using your long bar clamps. Alternate clamps on the top and bottom to prevent the newly formed top from bowing upward.
Do NOT use pocket holes to attach the boards of the tabletop to each other. Seasonal wood expansion and contraction will eventually cause the top to split if it's screwed rigidly together. Wood glue alone is much stronger.
Step 3: Sanding and Finishing
Once the glue has cured overnight, remove the clamps.
- Sand it flat: Start with 80-grit sandpaper on your orbital sander to level out the joints. Move up to 120-grit, and finish the entire top and base with 220-grit until smooth to the touch.
- Attach the top: Place the tabletop face down on blanket on the floor. Center the base upside down on top of it. Use "figure-eight" fasteners or Z-clips to attach the base to the top. (Again, this allows the solid wood top to expand and contract without cracking).
- Stain and Protect: Apply your favorite wood stain (Dark Walnut and Early American are popular farmhouse choices). Once dry, apply at least three coats of a water-based polyurethane to protect it from water rings and hot plates.
The Finished Masterpiece
When you flip that table over and set it in your dining room, there is a tremendous sense of pride.
You just built a solid wood piece of furniture that is stronger, cheaper, and more personal than anything you could buy in a store. Enjoy the process, don't rush the sanding, and get ready to host your next family dinner!
Keep your edges sharp,
– Mark